Fine Art Mix (archival) 9 oz. Of Liquitex® Pouring Medium, 2 oz. Gloss Medium, 2 oz. Floetrol®, 4 ounces of alkaline water and 1 ounce of GOLDEN® GAC800. Then a spray of silicone just prior to pouring.
Budget Mix (Elmer’s® School Glue™/PVA) (non-archival)—1 part acrylic paint to 1 part PVA, mix well; add water to reach desired consistency. Then a spray of silicone just prior to pouring.
Budget Mix (Elmer’s® Glue-All™) (non-archival) – ¼ cup (2 fl. ounces) acrylic paint to ¾ cup (6 fl. ounces) Glue-All™ mix*. Then a spray of silicone just prior to pouring.
(*Glue-All™ mix—I mix this—is ¾ cup glue to ¼ cup water.)
Floetrol® Mix 1 part Floetrol® with 4 parts highly-pigmented fluid acrylics,
or 1 part Floetrol® with 2 parts heavy-body acrylic paints.
One size does not fit all!
There are many variables to consider when following a paint pour “recipe”:
Paint types (fluid, soft body, house paint, etc.)
Water used (different PH levels, distilled, tap water)
Types and brands of additives used (pouring medium, PVA, bookbinder’s glue, silicones, dimethicone etc.)
I recommend all artists to experiment, takes notes (I keep a journal in my studio) and figure out what works for you, and what doesn’t.
A Word About Cell Creation:
One of the most frequent questions I receive is “How do I make cells?” My longstanding opinion is that it’s all about the fluidity of each individual color and how they react with each other. This is what I have found to be fundamental in cell creation.
But! Acrylic paint colors and their relative densities are also important. When I am creating a pour I am thinking in terms of, “How do I make the light layers break away from the darker colors and help them rise up and through to create ‘cells’?” If you have the consistencies correct, and you understand the paints’ densities and how they react with each other, it’s a beautiful thing to watch the cells form, almost as if by magic.
Silicone and alcohol do make a difference but they are not a requirement for cell creation.